Going Cashless in Japan

When the Tofugu team visited Japan earlier this year, we went through the process of trading our dollars for yen (at a great exchange rate, thank you Mr. Abe), a typical step in visiting a foreign country. But recently I’ve been wondering about whether or not that step is even necessary anymore. With everything so digitized and globalized, what’s the point of temporarily trading one currency for another?

American credit and debit cards are laughably primitive compared to the rest of the world. While America is the birthplace of the bank card, the country has fallen behind as the rest of the world has leapfrogged on American technology. Many other countries in the world have bank cards with much more sophisticated security mechanisms than the simple magnetic strip that’s on all of America’s credit and debit cards.

credit-cards

Photo by Thomas Kohler

Most Americans couldn’t care less about how people in other countries spend and secure their money, but it’s funny how actually being in one of those other countries changes your mind.

Like most places in the world, you use cash for pretty much everything in Japan—because in the words of RZA, GZA, et al, “cash rules everything around me”—it’s not always convenient. You have to keep your cash reserves topped off by constantly withdrawing from ATMs, and that can be difficult because not all Japanese ATMs accept American bank cards.

Plus, keeping cash around can be a huge pain. You’ll find those flimsy ¥1 coins piling up over time with no good way to get rid of them (if only vending machines accepted them!), and you have to be rather precise when spending your cash, lest you end up with an extra ¥20,000 burning a hole in your pockets at the end of your trip.

You Have Options

I’ve been thinking a lot about alternatives to cash recently (mostly because I just finished David Wolman’s book The End of Money) and, fortunately Japan has a lot of options.

Despite not being able to use the growingly-popular and supposedly Japanese-created Bitcoin, there is still a diverse patchwork of payment options for both those just visiting Japan and those in it for the long haul.

Prepaid Cards

One of the most common alternative payment methods you’ll see in Japan is prepaid IC (integrated circuit) cards.

These things are veritable Swiss army knives. You pay a refundable deposit to get your card, put some money on it and you can use them at conbini, vending machines, pay for train tickets, as keys for coin lockers, for taxis; hell, the only thing that don’t seem to pay for is your plane ticket back home. Typically, you can buy these prepaid IC cards in train stations around Japan, so they’re easy to purchase.

suica-reader

There are a ton of different kinds of IC cards, but probably the most recognizable is the Suica card, with its cute penguin mascot and the incredible amount of wordplay in its name and marketing. (Read the “etymology” section of the Wikipedia article on Suica and be awed.)

There are some downsides to prepaid IC cards, though. While a lot of the major cards recently became interoperable with each other, they’re still not as universally accepted as cash and other payment methods, and all of the different types of cards can be really confusing. (Does my Pasmo card work in Hokkaido? Do I want to buy a SUGOCA or Hayakaken card?)

Phones

While Japanese phones don’t seem as advanced and cool to Westerners as they used to, they have some features that aren’t available on Western phones; or, at least, aren’t used often on Western phones.

There are lots of different ways that you can use a mobile device to make payments in Japan. Not only do some of the prepaid cards I mentioned above have corresponding mobile apps, but there are other mobile wallet applications that have been in use in Japan for years.

Using your phone to pay for things seems nice and convenient. You always have your phone on you, transacations happen quickly, and you can keep an electronic trail of your spending.

Here’s the downside: Galapagos syndrome.

keitai

Galapagos syndrome is a term people use to talk about things that have evolved to meet the unique needs of their particular environment. Most people use the phrase to talk about Japanese cell phones, which developed very differently from phones in other places of the world.

In the case of making mobile payments, Galapagos syndrome kicks in when it comes to the underlying technology. Japanese phones and Western phones have historically used different technologies to make payments (FeliCa vs NFC), so if you’re visiting Japan and you have a fancy Western phone, don’t count on it working. While Tofugu was in Japan earlier this year our own Viet was unable to use his NFC-enabled Galaxy S III phone to make payments.

Unless you have a Japanese phone, it’s doubtful that you’ll be able to make mobile payments.

Fortunately, the Japanese have been making an effort to change that in recent years, producing phones with both payment technologies or just the more universally accepted standard (NFC). It’s very possible that, in the near future, your phone will be able to make payments in Japan and you won’t have to worry one bit about the technology behind it.


For better or worse, it’s hard to go completely cashless in Japan right now. As much as we might want to avoid the hassle of moving exchange rates, compatibility with foreign banks, and just keeping track of physical yen, the time just isn’t right yet to forgo cash altogether.

Still, I think that it’s very feasible that in the next decade or so, it might be possible for you walk right on by the currency exchange window in the airport on your way to Japan armed only with your trusty phone.

Only time will tell how phone charms will factor into the equation.


Wallpapers/GIFs

Once again, our incredible illustrator Aya has provided some full-sized desktop background images and animated GIFs for your enjoyment!

Desktop background (1280×800)
Desktop background (2560×1440)

Animated GIF (700×438)
Animated GIF (1280×800)

  • DAVIDPD

    With Suica, they have built in RFID, right? So you can just tap your wallet against a vending machine to buy things. I like that.

  • maestrohuber

    I’ve had The End of Money on my wishlist for a while now. Pretty good read?
    and
    Typically, you can buy these prepaid IC cards in train stations around Japan, so they’re easy to “purachase”.

  • Zach Walz

    I’m still surprised by how many small businesses don’t accept credit card. It seems that every small business in the US now at least has Square if not a full credit card machine, but all the small businesses I went to in Japan in were still cash-based last time I went. Being one of the most connected countries, you’d think more small businesses would have easier payment.

    I didn’t use Suica since I was hopping all over Japan, but I used a similar card in Hong Kong (the Octopus card) and it was awesome!

    Does anyone know if you need to have a chip-in-pin credit card in Japan? Apparently it’s a necessity in a lot of countries now. In the US these aren’t commonplace yet; I have one because I have a British Airways credit card (this saved me when I went to the Middle East!).

  • Andrew

    When I was in Japan earlier this year, I brought along my Galaxy Nexus. There is a free Android app called “Suica Reader’ that is amazing. You can literally tap your Suica card to your NFC-enabled phone and get the current balance and a list of all the recent transactions. (including details such as what station you entered/exited on recent train/subway trips!)

  • http://www.vietamins.com Viet

    I wish i would have known about this app when we were out in Japan a few months ago. Thanks fo the info!

  • http://www.vietamins.com Viet

    I believe Square has launched in Japan just recently.

    http://techcrunch.com/2013/05/23/square-starts-mobile-payments-in-japan-its-first-country-outside-of-north-america-in-partnership-with-visas-ally/

    Square is a nice system, so it would be great if Japan small businesses adopt it.

  • Datte baru

    I knew about Suica before reading this article … It was in an eroge :D

  • Phillip

    That reminds me, when will we see the footage that you guys filmed for TofuguTV?

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Look to my coming on the first light of the fifth day, at dawn look to the east.

  • Shawn

    Starting a couple months ago, you can use any of the IC cards all across Japan, so yes, Pasmo does work in Hokkaido now. I’ve used it there. When I visited in February, it was before the change, so I couldn’t use it then, but when I went in mid-April (after the change), it worked. I think the only exception is Okinawa. IC cards from the 4 main islands don’t work on the Yui Monorail.

  • Phillip

    Go.

  • Skyeaten

    I love articles like these :3 going to a different country can by such a hassle if you don’t have info like this.

  • linguarum

    I was in Japan last April, and didn’t bring quite enough yen. Most of the time, this is not a problem when I travel. I mean, there’s always an ATM somewhere, right? Apparently Visa is everywhere you want to be except Japan. I must have tried 10 different ATMs – 7 Eleven, the airport, nothing would take my card. And most restaurants will not take anything but cash. Fortunately my wife’s family loaned us some money, but if I didn’t have family in Japan, I would have been up a creek without a paddle – no money, no way to get it. Tried to by some cash cards, but of course you have to pay for them somehow, and once again, nobody would take my Visa. I’m afraid that no matter what new payment technology comes out, Japan will be slow to latch on. I mean, they’re still using the fax machine over there (http://www.tofugu.com/2012/08/22/japans-romance-with-the-fax-machine/).

  • Kiyomori

    I was in Japan in 2008, 2009 and in April this year, and no matter where I went in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe and Nara, my Norwegian Visa card worked at every 7 & I holdings, 7 Eleven ATM machines. The fax machines are still used in Norway in regards to work, and Norway being one of the richest countries in the world. It’s not about being behind on the technology, it’s about convenient use of good, simple technology that will work when electricity is down in the building since using an analog line can output electricity to the machine through the phone-line(analog)

  • Andrew

    7-Eleven’s ATMs always have been a reliable option for me. From what I’ve read, those are the best option (besides the Post Office ATMs, but those have limited hours I think) for foreigners. I’m not sure why your card was giving you so much trouble there.

  • Andrew

    Yep. It’s pretty convenient. I even paid for admission to one of the temples at Kamakura with a Suica tap.

  • Applesauce 21

    Do you have any advice on how to get a temporary japanese phone in Japan?

  • George

    Prepaid Cards, second paragraph typo. “Purachase” should be “purchase.” ;)

  • MissingJapan

    I still have my Suica from 2006. To think, we still can’t manage to do something like that in the U.S. today…

  • Henro 88

    The only ATM I’ve found in my city that takes an American ATM card (I purposefully tried out as many as I could, just to experiment), and the only ATM I found was the one at the post office.

    The Japanese post office also runs a bank, which I think is popular among old women. Anyway, since the post office is such a wide-reaching entity, it turns out that their ATMs accept American ATM cards.

    So, there you go: if you’re in Japan, searching for an ATM, and nothing seems to work, pop into the post office. Maybe. Who knows? Everything is different everywhere you go in this country. Ironically.

  • Henro 88

    Don’t need it in the US. We have other systems in place, like a debit card system that gives you pretty much free access (I guess, depending on your bank – mine is free) to your money anywhere you go. Or personal checks, which are outdated and no one uses them, but they are also a completely free (again, if you go to a good bank) way to access your money anywhere in the US.

    On top of all that, we have this magical thing called “24 hour ATM’s,” which Japan hasn’t managed to figure out yet, for some ungodly reason. We also accept credit cards almost anywhere you go, which are pretty much internationally standard now – any visitor to the US can just whip out their card and be ok.

    “We still can’t manage to do something like that in the US…” Why would we need to? It would be a niche product at best in the US since you have so many more options for accessing your money there.

  • Ashley Tieman

    I think it’s bizarre you’re calling out American credit/debt cards when my Japanese bank card is FAR worse:
    - not accepted at grocery stores or restaurants
    - is not backed by Visa or another major company so it’s not accepted at the few places here that DO take credit cards
    - can only be used at an ATM with very FIXED HOURS (seriously, wtf is up with that? ATMS do not need to be closed, Japan!)
    - the bank is a small, regional one, so when I travel I have to take out lots of cash ahead of time since the bank does not have any branches/partners in other prefectures

    So give me my “behind the times” American card any day of the week!

  • belgand

    It depends greatly on where you live in the US if credit/debit cards are accepted. I know, I hate using cash, but San Francisco merchants frequently won’t take anything else. Admittedly this is primarily an issue with restaurants, convenience stores, and paying for smaller items, but it’s not uncommon to encounter a $15 or $20 minimum to use credit/debit cards even in places that are popular and have a large amount of business or cash-only at restaurants where the check will almost always be $30+.

    Bars in particular all seem to be cash-only which I never understood. When living elsewhere I’ve known far too many friends who would start a tab on their card at the bar and end up purchasing far more than they normally would because they didn’t have to think about paying for it each time or pay an extra $3-4 in fees to one of those janky little ATMs in the corner. If anything it seems like there’s a vested interest to keep those crappy ATMs in business and skim customers for a few extra dollars if they don’t carry cash everywhere.

  • FoxiBiri

    i love muh suicccaaaaa <333!!

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    A very helpful post for people who want to visit Japan.
    I have forgotten how it was for me when I was just a tourist in Japan. It’s certainly different when you live in Japan.
    I can second your recommendation for prepaid cards and since the JR cards like Suica and Icoca have become mutually usable, it’s even more convenient! You don’t have to waste time figuring out which station you want to get off and how much to pay. It saves a lot of time, especially during high seasons!

    Around Golden Week and the end of the year / beginning of the year, I still recommend carrying around a lot of cash, though.
    ATMs will all not work and it might not work out with your credit card either.

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    They even have a service now where you can bring your own phone and use a b-mobile SIM card. Just google for it and see if it’s for you.
    Other than that getting a prepaid phone with Softbank is still the most common thing to do.

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    Luckily Japan is really an “easy” country to travel to. I think most people think it’s more complicated than it actually is, but I agree that there are so many “tiny” things that you should know beforehand. :)

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    Yes, that’s right. It was about time they finally did that! And more and more smaller stations also are equipped with IC card readers now.
    A few years ago it was still very annoying.

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    It really depends on the type of card you have.
    My friends from Germany were most successful in the post office ATM, other cards worked in the ATMs of certain conbinis.
    But you’re right. One shouldn’t expect that they can easily withdraw money from just any ATM in Japan. It’s still a problem for many.

    Japan is a safe country, so carrying around a lot of cash is not a problem.

  • walker

    i still carry my SUICA card in my wallet, 18 months after the last visit. i think it’s still got around Y1000 on it, hopefully enough to get me from the airport to tokyo when i go next (and if not, i can top up easily as soon as i arrive). i feel reassured by its presence – should i somehow accidentally end up in tokyo by some random accident of quantum physics, i’d have enough for a konbini bento and a chu-hi, with a short train fare left over. the little fellas are good for 10 years, too! now, that’s confidence.

    but i still like cash, too. i’m a confused luddite, that way. there’s just a nice feeling to pulling out a Y10,000 note (or two), and spending it _all_ on toys.

  • Applesauce 21

    Thank you so much :) I love your blog by the way!

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    You’re very welcome! ^___^
    Aww, thank you so much! :)

  • Jacinda

    Japanese banking really threw me when I was in Japan in 2007 … it was SO FAR behind Australian banking it was not funny.

    The first few days I arrived I had a bit of yen on me and a few travellers cheques … as well as my Aussie Visa debit card. I went to an electronics store and tried to buy a camera using said Visa card. It happened … eventually … But honestly took about an hour just to process the VISA, sure language was a problem there as well … but for more than half that time they weren’t even talking to me… I don’t understand. I didn’t have that problem any other time whilst I was there but I think I mostly avoided using my VISA card after that. It’d only come out when I needed some cash and I’d go to the post office ATM to get cash out of my Aussie accoutn (why didn’t the bank have ATMs with that capacity – why post offices?!)

    Then the ATMs. As I was there for 10 months I had a bank account opened up etc… What kind of ATM charges fees if you use it outside of business hours?!? Turns out a Japanese one! The only things Japanese ATMs had that I was unfamiliar with Aussie ones having was the ability to deposit cash (handy way of getting rid of all the 1yen coins ;) ) and of course updating your crazy weird Japanese bank book (預金通帳). But the real thing that threw me was that the bank cards didn’t have EFTPOS ability.

    Living there helped me understand why Japanese celebrities carry so much cash on there (I’ve seen TV shows where they reveal the celebs carrying up to 100,000 + yen on them at any given time)

  • Hraesvelgr

    “With everything so digitized and globalized, what’s the point of temporarily trading one currency for another?”
    Because if you don’t you’ll go the way of the euro. Dominos, dominos everywhere.

  • http://www.jlgatewood.com/ J.L. “J7″ Gatewood StarrWulfe

    Actually I’ve been meaning to do a more in-depth article outlining banking options for both visitors and ex-pat residents. But I can start here by clearing up some things…

    While it’s true that you may run into some issues using ATMs here in Japan with overseas cards, it’s not nearly as bad as it used to be. Every 7-11 in the country takes most every ATM card. Also the Postal Bank does too now. As far as shops go, just about all large and medium chains will process credit cards including the Visa/MasterCard logo debit cards. Of course, the smaller the town or business, the more likely you’re going to have to deal in cash.

    As far as prepaid cash cards go, there’s nothing more ubiquitous than a transit farecard now. In March of this year, all the major transit agencies in the country along with the JR group, integrated their IC card networks together, so now whether you have a Suica from Tokyo, Manaca from Nagoya, Kitaca from Hokkaido, or Hyakkaken from Kyushu– It’ll work all over Japan as a farecard AND E-Money at coin lockers, convenience stores, food restaurants, and more. I tend to keep a full 10000 yen on my Pasmo since it’s way easier to just use that instead of fighting for coins in my wallet while shopping. Hint: Most stores and services in or near train stations will take IC cards too…

  • Kiyomori

    Yeah, I bought sake from an little alcohol shop on the other side of the road of where I stayed with my Visa card :) used the chip in it, not the magnet-strip on the back. I carried with me around 80,000yen when I arrived, and then took out 50,000 more when I ran out :) Lost my wallet one time after I left a pub in Asakusa in Tokyo, but found it at the koban at the kaminarimon :) it had 70,000 yen in it :)

  • Kiyomori

    well…. you got 24 hour ATM’s in Japan… it’s called 7Eleven :) they have ATMs, and stay open all day around ;)

  • Kiyomori

    I must inform you aswell that getting an prepaid phone isn’t as easy, not all stores sell them. I tried atleast 4 stores, 2 in Asakusa, 1 in shibuya and 1 in Akihabara, none of them sold prepaid. but they said that there are stores that sold them, my japanese isn’t good enough to find out exactly where the stores that sold them were located, but I did find out that one near the crossing in shibuya was supposed to sell prepaid phones.

  • http://www.tofugu.com/ Hashi

    Thanks, fixed!

  • http://www.tofugu.com/ Hashi

    Please let us know when you finish up your article, I’d love to read it!

  • Applesauce 21

    Thank you! I will have a hunt around that area in July :) I’m glad I know that they won’t be in all stores!

  • http://www.jlgatewood.com/ J.L. “J7″ Gatewood StarrWulfe

    I’ll try to get to it this week! Thanks!

  • Pepper_the_Sgt

    7-Elevens have international ATMs, too. I don’t know why.

  • Paulo

    Thank you for sharing this to us, at least we already know how important cash is in Japan… xD I myself is dependent so much on credit cards and debit cards because it is rather not that recommended to bring cash here in our place because it is not safe.. At least you did inform us that in Japan it’s quite different, so I guess I should be saving a lot of cash if I want to go there someday! xD

  • Henro 88

    My experience with those is that, if MY bank is closed, then even if the ATM is open, it won’t process my request. If I go to a conbini ATM after 7, it will accept my card, but it will spit it right back out at me saying my bank is closed.

    Also, no 7/11′s in my prefecture, so it’s a moot point for me.

    Again, though, check the Post Office if you need an international ATM transaction.

  • Henro 88

    Except in America, places that don’t take credit cards are exceptions to the norm, not the other way around. Also, credit card companies in Japan are supposedly extremely racist and rarely give cards to non-Japanese. Among the expats I know, getting a credit card has always been treated as a kind of minor milestone.

  • Henro 88

    The really cool thing about Japanese ATMs is that, even though they are useless in terms of hours, they have tons of other functions. You mentioned the bank book (which is cool) and depositing money (which is also cool), but you can also do wire transfers between bank accounts – this is actually one reason why Japanese people don’t use credit cards. For a few hundred yen, they can just wire their money directly to the people they want to pay. Amazon and Rakuten both accept wire transfers from an ATM, while others accept payment at convenience stores. (This is also why Japanese people in general don’t use PayPal; my boss didn’t even know what it was!)

    So, as much as I despise ATM hours in Japan, the machines are shockingly useful in their own way.

  • Guest

    I’ve never even heard of prepaid phones in Japan. Prepaid is for foreigners and poor people, and it’s not like Japan has ANY of those /sarcasm.

  • http://www.tofugu.com/ Hashi

    I would definitely recommend it!

  • Chammink

    I’m currently studying abroad in Japan. If you aren’t sure where to go in order to withdraw money with you American card, always go to a post office. My friends and I have never had an issue when using one of them, it’s the ATMs at conbinis and other places where they probably won’t work.

    Japan tried going cashless before and they had a giant credit crash, that’s why they are mostly a cash society. To be honest, I like not being able to use my card here except at the ATM. It helps me budget and control my spending because I can see exactly how much money I have instead of just swiping plastic. Plus, Japan is a much safer country, so as long as I don’t do anything stupid, I have never feared losing my money. While walking around Japan you may see some things that look out of place. Usually it’s because people have dropped something. Another person will come along, pick it up, and usually place it somewhere more visible in the same place and then just leave it, that way the owner can come and retrieve it later. I’ve seen Japanese people pick up a bill or two from the bus, or on the ground, even if it’s just a 1000 yen note, they always give it to the driver or someone of authority in the area. They are very honest people, it’s quite refreshing.

    Paying using an app on your phone is interesting, but if it doesn’t work then you can pay almost any bill at a Conbini. You just give the cashier they slip and they take your payment, stamp the slip and give part of it back as proof. Nice and fast. Plus, Conbinis are everywhere so it’s never hard to find one.