How To Eat Like A Japanese Buddhist Monk, Part 1: What Is Shojin Ryori?

It’s really tough being a vegetarian in Japan. That being said, I’m not a vegetarian around 25% of the time (BACON), so I can’t really speak from experience, but it’s so obvious. Unless you’re willing to eat fish, being a vegetarian is a huge pain in the neck.

There is hope for vegetarians in Japan, though, and that comes from a type of cooking known as shojin ryori (精進料理) which I guess sort of translates to “devotion/self-discipline cooking.” The idea is that this type of food will put you in the best frame of mind to understand Buddha’s teachings.

Over the course of several articles, I’m going to go over shojin ryori. In fact, I’ll even be eating and preparing shojin ryori food for your pleasure (I’m so bad at cooking) and education over the next few weeks. But first, we need to learn more about the philosophy behind it. Let’s find out.

Why Shojin Ryori?

shojin ryori

Besides being the most delicious vegetarian food on the planet (by a lot, mind you), shojin ryori is incredibly good for you. Eating like this, while difficult, is going to make you more energetic, feel better, and probably prevent 50 different kinds of cancer (while only giving you 3 or 4, nice trade). You do have to consider the salt intake that comes with this type of eating, but in terms of trade-offs shojin ryori is a very healthy option (you stop your scoffing, raw food vegans, or Buddha will smite you with his giant metal foot).

Really, though, when foods are fresh they tend to be healthy, and shojin ryori is (traditionally) all about the freshness of foods. While you and I just walk down to the grocery store to buy apples and naners any time of the year, Buddhist monks practicing shojin ryori harvest only seasonal fruits and vegetables even though the nearest Lawson’s is probably only three blocks away. But convenience isn’t the point! The point is that local seasonal foods bring you in flow with nature. Not only that, but the foods that grow in different seasons are supposedly the foods your body needs during that season. Mari Fujii who wrote “The Enlightened Kitchen” says it best:

The slight bitterness of spring buds and shoots [...] is said to remove the fat the body accumulates during the winter. Summer vegetables from the melon family, such as tomatoes, eggplants and cucumbers, have a cooling effect on the body. Fall provides and abundant harvest of sweet potatoes, yams, pumpkins and fruit, which revive tired bodies after the heat of summer. In winter, a variety of root vegetables, such as daikon radish, turnip and lotus root, provide warmth and sustenance.

The thing is, these kinds of foods are also extremely healthy for you. You won’t be digging up any McRibs (even though they’re seasonal too) in the ground around any Buddhist temple. Besides, McRibs contain too much sentient animal meat, and because Buddhists believe that all sentient life can achieve Buddhahood, they don’t eat said sentient life. So, shojin ryori is going to be plant based (includes sea plants). As shojin ryori chef Keizo Kobayashi says:

The abstention of eating flesh (meat, fish, fowl, etc.) and the limiting oneself to a vegetarian diet is a discipline of “right effort.” it is based on the precept of non-killing, for all sentient (living) beings have the potentiality of Buddha-hood. We realize that it is not possible to survive without sacrifice of living beings, for plant life is included, also. Through this practice, we strive to develop true awareness, reverence and appreciation of the interdependency, or oneness of all life.

So, it’s not just being vegetarian to be vegetarian. It’s really more about the state of mind you’re put in. You have to think about what you eat. You have to think about where the food comes from (and often get it yourself). The food as well as the preparation of the food prepares you for Buddha’s teaching. Not only does the food make you feel better, but it also makes you think.

Preparing For A Month Of Shojin Cooking

shojin ryori ingredients

It wouldn’t be particularly easy for me to spend the month cooking seasonally fresh vegetables, not to mention that the things that grow in Japan don’t necessarily grow here, so I’m going to rely on my local Asian grocery store to bail me out. I went through a couple of shojin ryori recipe books before heading to the store, writing down all the ingredients. I then went through to find the most common fresh ingredients (80/20 rule, baby), the ingredients I could buy once and use for a long time (konbu, sesame seeds, etc), and the fresh ingredients that only appear occasionally. I then went shopping, buying a ton of ingredients for around $100. It’ll come out to be quite cheap, all in all.

Over the next week I’ll be attempting to prepare several dishes, starting pretty simple. I’m going to focus on ingredient management and the pairing of dishes, since shojin ryori tends to be comprised of several separate pieces. Then, hopefully I’ll get better through trial and error.

Out of all the types of food I’ve had in Japan, I wouldn’t say this is the thing that I like eating the best (though it’s way, way up there). It is however the type of food I’m most fascinated with. Making something this delicious without meat or dipping sauces is quite remarkable. If I was to go all-in vegetarian, this would be the kind of food I’d eat. While it’s way more difficult to prepare than most vegetarian dishes, it is by far the best tasting.

So, I want to learn how to do it. Along the way I’ll share the process as well. I’m thinking this series will go something like:

  1. What is Shojin Ryori? (Complete!)
  2. Common Ingredients of Shojin Ryori (next week!)
  3. Preparing The Shojin Ryori Staples
  4. Meals You Can Try To Cook Too!

So, I hope you enjoy this little journey with me. Being a terrible cook, I’m not sure how pretty it’ll be, but I do hope you learn something. Maybe you too will be able to give all this a shot (there’s not too many resources out there on the internet, anyways). I’ll also always try to go into the ingredients and more into the philosophy of this kind of cooking as it comes up. There’s so much more to know about shojin ryori. Really, this is just the surface.

So, here’s my question to you: Have you eaten shojin ryori? I know many of you have been to Koya-san. The temples there have some great shojin ryori. You’ll also find it all around Japan at many other Buddhist temples too. If you’ve had it, share your experience and how you thought it tasted. Best vegetarian food in the world, ammiright?

P.S. Should you want to follow along, I’ll be following the books listed in the “sources” section below. The first book is easy to get, the second one a little harder. I’ll be mixing and matching as well as modifying recipes, so if you’d like to follow along or try this on your own, I’d recommend these two books to start (especially number 1).

Anyways, time to go make some konbu stock. I hear I’ll need a lot of it.

[hr]

Sources:

Shojin Cooking, The Buddhist Vegetarian Cook Book, by Keizo Kobayashi
The Enlightened Kitchen
, by Mari Fujii

  • ash

    ota tofu!! (I walk past on my way to work). fall is upon us fellow pdx’r. good luck with your shojin ryori!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Seriously is the greatest tofu. They don’t make tofu like Ota tofu anymore, not even in Japan, which makes it kind of crazy that it’s in pdx.

  • http://twitter.com/cibeleanjo Robin Birdwell

    Ooh I am super excited about this. I’ve been a veggie for about a year, but only very recently have I ventured into any Japanese cooking. I await your instruction, Master Koichi.

  • http://twitter.com/Landorien Lan

    Really looking forward to this series!

    Can you recommend any recipe books in Japanese on the subject?

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    If I come across any I’ll let you know – I’m sure there’s plenty out there!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Prepare to make terrible food under my tutelage! :P

  • Kathryn Loeffler

    Kajitsu is a shojin ryori restaurant in NYC and it is delicious. I try to go once a month or so as they have a constantly changing menu.

    Kansha by Elizabeth Andoh is another excellent cookbook based on the shojin ryori tradition.

    Good luck!

  • http://www.facebook.com/sarah.cassidy.184 Sarah Cassidy

    I’m really looking forward to seeing how you get on. I’ve tried a few recipes from the “3 Bowls” book (http://www.amazon.com/Bowls-Vegetarian-American-Buddhist-Monastery/dp/039597707X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_3) with mixed success.

    I’ve been learning Japanese since January and I really want to visit Japan. There’s one thing really worrying me though – I’m vegetarian. I followed the link you gave for the first book and it mentions a Soto Zen restaurant in Tokyo. Are there many such restaurants in Japan or will I spend my whole trip eating boiled rice unless I can find a temple that will feed me!?

  • samjarnat

    This sounds like an interesting series. Can’t wait! Humor and info all rolled into one neat little package. Betty, step aside and allow Koichi Crocker to shine!

  • http://www.facebook.com/joshua.hurd Joshua Hurd

    I had some great shojin ryori while I was in Koyasan. The tofu… the tofu! No idea how they did it but there were at least three totally different preparations of tofu and all of them delicious. No fugu to go with it though :(

    Recently I’ve been cooking up some stuff like Kenchinjiru, kinpira gobo, and (not really shojin ryori afaik) chazuke. Tasty stuff. Looking forward to this series!

  • Mescale

    Its my understanding that most Vegetarians feel eating fish is justifiable homicide. And why not, I mean theres that song by Kurt Cobain, and vegetarianism is stupid anyway.

    Its ok to eat eggs and milk? Are you serious, steal unborn chicken babies and eat them, keep cows in a state of pregnancy so you can steal their babies milk so we can drink it.

    At least if you’re eating meat, the animal lives a life, then dies, instead of being kept alive in a perpetual state of broodiness so they can be harvested regularly.

    So lets get this straight you either are Hardcore Vegan, Omnivore or criminally stupid (Vegetarian).

    Oh and I guess I should give a shout out to picky eaters who don’t eat some foods for “health reasons” and consider themselves vegetarian for this reason, rather than “idealistic” reasons.

    Yeah you people, you’re just regular dumb.

  • DAVIDPD

    or TEMPURA EVERYTHING!!!

  • HatsuHazama

    Well, this is a nice turn of events… ke ke ke….

    What I mean is this was more unexpected than the how to be a baka gaijin series. Hey hey though, I might try make some and see how it is.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=806595022 Sandra Lavigne

    yay I love that you’re doing this :D
    will you share some recipes?
    and.. I heard that Shojin Ryori restaurants in Japan tend to be very expensive, do you know if this is true and/or if there are any good inexpensive ones in Tokyo? or do any regular restaurants offer Shojin Ryori menu options?
    I’m vegan and going to Japan next summer. the food issue scares me MUCH more than the language barrier, crowds, culture differences, etc

  • Koichinist

    Oh, God, our Koichi is well on his way to become a Japanese Buddhist monk! Will Koichi keep writing on here once he gets Enlightenment?

  • Reptic

    “Oh and I guess I should give a shout out to picky eaters who don’t
    eat some foods for “health reasons” and consider themselves vegetarian
    for this reason, rather than “idealistic” reasons.

    Yeah you people, you’re just regular dumb.”

    I’m not a vegetarian or anything (I’m a BBQ fiend), but despite this, even I’m aware that meat has been linked to a lot of cancers. If someone has the strength to drop eating meat for this reason (certainly a better man than I), more power too them. I don’t see how it’s dumb, unless they became super paranoid that everything they eat might contain “meat poison”. But I doubt they’d be like that.

  • Nicholas Meyer

    すえきち (I hope that is the proper word to use) (^o^)

  • Tofusan

    Let’s create the Ota Tofu Appreciation Society!

  • http://www.myjapanesegreentea.com/ Ricardo Caicedo

    I love Japanese food and I hadn’t heard about shojin ryori. I’m ashamed of myself!
    I’m eager to read the rest of the series.

  • Tiana

    I was in Japan for two weeks last December and as a vegan, I will definitely say it was a challenge but not impossible. I cheated and used the book “Vegan Japan” to show me all the little vegan restaurants and this is how I ended up eating Shojin Ryori at Shigetsu Restaurant in Arashiyama. I still dream of that meal! It was one of my best meals yet and I regularly cook Japanese food at home.

  • pinkcatmints

    I just returned from a year studying abroad in Okayama. I mostly cooked for myself, however, when eating out I made the exception to allow dashi containing fish into my diet. By allowing this (like katsuo flakes, which are in most everything… if I saw it on a label for ice cream I would not be surprised in the least- EVERYTHING) I was able to find something at most every restaurant. Otherwise, the vegetable sushi is suitable, not 100% a vegan place or anything (or even 10%) but you will find vegan options there. There are always veggie noodle dishes (soba, udon, soumen, etc) but again, the broth or dipping sauce will probably have the fish dashi in it – maybe some will just be kombu? In places like Kyoto and Nara, there will be a lot more options for you, but those are just two, and rather pricey, places.

  • DAVIDPD

    I would suggest making a huge pot of konbu dashi and then making soups and stews for your meals. Japanese soups are really easy to make, essentially simmered vegetables and mushrooms. Get some abura age, fried tofu, firm tofu, and you’re set. P.S. You can make okonomiyaki vegetarian!!!!

  • http://zoomingjapan.com/ zoomingjapan

    Yes, I’ve been to Koya-san as well as to many other places that offered Shojin Ryori, but haven’t tried it yet, but I definitely want to! :)

  • http://twitter.com/bomblol rick

    Ohhh, this is gonna be cool.

  • Skurt

    I ate a turnip once.. does that count?

  • Rashmi

    I’m looking forward to reading more about this, Koichi. Is Shojin ryori available everywhere or only in select places? My husband wants to visit Japan, but I’m reluctant because he’s a ‘no meat no fish’ vegetarian and I don’t want him to starve, neither do I want to lug boxes of instant dals and parathas along.

  • FoxiBiri

    I’ve been a vegetarian for 6 years, even while living in Japan, and while it was a little more difficult it wasn’t “really hard” (besides Japan’s lack of black beans and mexican food)
    肉と魚なしください ^^ are the magic words you can even throw in ベジテリアヌです, although my fellow veggie housemate told me once somebody thought that was his name…
    Sadly this lifestyle choice ment no sushi ;_; but you get over it. There are plenty of Japanese food vegetarians can still sustain themselves on and for cheap! Theres udon, yasai donburi, tamago yaki, soba, tofu side dishes, yasai tempura, okonomiyaki prepared without meat, and tofu or beans burgers from freshness burger!! I never did find yasai gyoza though :(
    Anyway, this Shojin Ryori project sounds awesome >.<"!! I can't wait to see what it's all about and hopefully try it myself :3

  • FoxiBiri

    freshness burger’s beans or tofu burger <3 it isn't that hard finding vegetarian or vegetarian modified dishes in Japan :3

  • FoxiBiri

    lucky for you there’s no cheese in Japan >.>

  • FoxiBiri

    I just want to point out that the eggs people eat aren’t fertilized… basically they’re chicken periods >.> not unborn chicken babies.

  • Yulia Smi.

    I’m vegan but I believe that if you recognize the cruelty surrounding your food you still have to be strong enough to give it up entirely. If you give up all products coming from animals- great! But if you only have the strengh to give up certain products (like meat) that’s awesome too. It’s still a contribution…

  • http://www.facebook.com/sarah.cassidy.184 Sarah Cassidy

    Thanks. I’ll look out for those then.

  • vivianlostinseoul

    Great post Koichi, can’t wait to read more!! I love shojin ryori but I don’t often cook it. Today I made vegetarian miso soup, it was quite tasty. Good luck!!
    http://www.vivianlostinseoul.blogspot.jp/

  • ジョサイア

    I’ll make the Facebook page and Google group :b

  • ジョサイア

    I’m really hungry…and you write a post about yummy food. >.>
    I go get “Chicken” sandwich now…

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    He can probably make it, he’ll just be pretty limited in what he can eat. Shojin Ryori is available in other places besides temples, but it’s temples that most commonly have it, I’d say.

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Halfway there!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    *SHOCK FACE*

    They have Shojin Ryori that makes me want to turn vegetarian. You must try!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    I know right? Non Shojin Ryori vegans don’t know what they’re missing out on.

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Yay, edumacating!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    I will preach the ways of koichidamus

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    But how do you hide from the dashi??? It has its little fish claws in everything D: D:

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Well, if you go to fancy Shojin Ryori place it’ll be a bit expensive… but like other commenter said, there’s some options (just not too many). If you can, make an exception for fish dashi and your life will become 100x easier.

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    No eggs for making the flour stick to the veggies and no dipping sauce allowed in Shojin Ryori tempura, tho :(

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    I’m just waiting for my healthy soylent green.

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Koya has the Koyadofu, which is frozen tofu that gets cooked. Apparently some monk accidentally left the tofu outside and it froze, and he was like “Meh, I’ll cook it anyways” and it was delicious. I betcha that’s 1 of 3!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    If you can make an exception for dashi, which is fishy, your life will be easier! If not, you can manage, but it won’t be the easiest thing in the world.

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    Thanks! I’ll take a look at that book!

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    lol – I have a feeling they’ve never heard of Facebook at Ota Tofu…

  • http://www.tofugu.com koichi

    IKR?? Cheese is so delicious and missing :(

    Same with good beer.