August is the month of the traditional Buddhist Obon festival. During this time, ancestral spirits return home for their annual visit from the netherworld to dance and celebrate, and families reunite in their hometowns to greet them and join in on the festivities.

But dancing with the ghost of great great grandma isn’t the only way the Japanese celebrate the season of spirits. Blood-curdling flicks flood the cinemas, Kabuki theaters revive traditional ghost plays, adrenaline-junkie teenagers test their courage with late-night trips to the local cemetery (I double-dog dare you!), and you can’t turn on the TV without catching a rerun of “The Haunting of Hanako-chan’s Toilet.”

Even though it’s still 2 months from Halloween, the ghost season has already started in Japan, and with so much paranormal activity going on, you’ve got to be ready. In this article, I’m gong to layout the basics of Japanese ghosts so you can be prepared for your next encounter with a supernatural (and possibly vengeful) spirit.

Ghosts Back in the Day

Kodama are harmless spirits who inhabit trees.

The word for ghost in Japanese, yuurei（幽霊), roughly translates into “dim spirit” or “faint soul.” It’s believed that stories of the supernatural were commonly shared in Japan even before documentation. The country is inundated with spine-chilling tales.

According to Haruo Suwa, a professor at Gakushiun Univeristy, the first recorded ghost stories date back to the Heian Period in the early eighth century. One of the first documented spirits appeared in the tenth century novel, “The Tale of Genji.” At this time, yuurei were considered to be harmless spirits. In fact, some believed that seeing one was a sign of good fortune (“Yes! I saw a wondering corpse! Today’s gonna be a good day.”)

While many Western religions believe in the existence of one, supreme deity, the ancient Japanese believed in omnipresent divinity. This included the idea that humans can transform into supernatural beings after death. So, while Western ghosts may be thought of as the shadow of one’s self, yuurei were believed to be like gods.

The humanoid form of a Kodama – a godlike spirit.

However, as the religious beliefs of Japan began to change, so did the ideas around the status of the human soul after death. With the spread of Buddhism, yuurei slowly became the manifestations of vengeful souls.

The Influence of Buddhism

The introduction of the concepts of heaven and hell, supernatural beasts, and reincarnation in Buddhism completely changed the face of the Japanese yuurei. Rumors of apparitions became more and more exaggerated and prevalent, inspiring a ghost story renaissance.

According to the Japanese beliefs of this era, every human possesses a reikon, or a soul. After a person dies, their soul goes through a form of purgatory where it waits to be released to its ancestors by means of a traditional Buddhist funeral ceremony. If all goes right, the person’s soul becomes a loving protector of the living family.

However, if the person dies in an sudden, unnatural manner, whether it be by suicide or murder, or if the proper burial ceremony is not preformed, the person is said to transform into a yuurei – a being which has the power to bridge the supernatural world and the physical world. A person may also become a yuurei if they are weighed down by overwhelming negative emotions such as hate, sorrow, or vengeance in their life, and that’s when things start to get scary.

While most yuurei don’t wander around, terrorizing every pet and small child in sight, they will haunt locations specifically tied to their negative emotions. In fact, there are several classifications of yuurei based upon the way they died and their reason for returning to Earth. They are:

Onryō: Vengeful ghosts who were wrong during their lifetimes and come back from purgatory for some pay back.

Ubume: The ghost of a mother who died in childbirth, or died leaving her children behind. Instead of bringing wrath, this yuurei brings sweets and longs to take care of her children.

Goryō: Ghosts of the aristocratic class, especially those who were martyred. Goryō are also mainly interested in vengeance.

Funayūrei: The ghosts of those who died at sea. These ghosts are said to have a scaly complexion – some might even resemble mermaids. Is the Little Mermaid a ghost? Must be.

Zashiki-warashi: The ghosts of children. These guys are often more mischievous than dangerous (like Peeves from Harry Potter).

Samurai Ghosts: The ghosts of soldiers who fell in battle, especially the Genpei war. Unlike most other yuurei, these ghosts usually have legs and are almost exclusively shown in Noh theater.

Seductress Ghosts: The ghost of a vengeful man or woman who comes back to start a post-death love affair with a human (as seen in Botan Dōrō).

One of the most famous ghost stories, or kaidan, in Japanese history is known as Yotsuya Kaidan. In this tale of revenge, a husband poisons his wife, Oiwa, out of longing to marry an affluent neighbor. Oiwa’s hair falls out, her face becomes disfigured, and she eventually dies, but not without coming back for revenge on her unsuspecting husband.

This eerie tale has been revived countless times in the theater and has become a timeless classic. Thanks to the magical powers of YouTube, you can watch the entire play here:

Now that you know the different kinds of yuurei, let’s take a look at how to identify them.

How to Identify a Yuurei

And it looks like we’ve got a ghost in the pitching position today.

The Japanese tradition of telling ghost stories hit its peak in the Edo era (1600-1868). Many ghost stories came from the Bunka-Bunsei period in the early 19th century, an era of creative decadence, as it became a traditional way to pass the hours on hot summer nights.

It was during this period that the image of a typical Japanese ghost was really solidified. Ghost-revelers and those in the arts alike started attributing certain physical characteristics to spirits, making it easier to distinguish humans from those of the next world. If you’re in a situation where you need to identify a ghost, look out for these features:

White clothing

Ghosts usually are depicted in white – a symbol of the white kimonos used in Edo era burial practices. White also happens to be the color of ritual purity in Shinto and was reserved for priests and the dead. Japanese ghosts might also have a white, triangular piece of fabric on their heads called a hitaikakushi.

Black hair

This is one of the most obvious trademarks of a Japanese ghost. A yuurei’s hair is usually long, black and disheveled. Traditionally Japanese women grew their hair out long and wore it up, but it was let down for a funeral ritual. Even in modern times ghosts are said to have this type of hair, and sometimes it even attacks!

Hands and Feet

Another feature of yuurei is that they have no feet. Instead of walking, they drift about supernaturally, arms extended and wrists limp (almost like a zombie). This image was first depict in Edo era Ukiyo-e prints and later adopted in kabuki theater. Actors would either wear long kimonos or be lifted into the air by a system of pulleys. I shouldn’t have to say this, but if someone is coming toward you in the dead of night and you notice they are lacking the appendages to do so with, you should be very skeptical.

Hitodama

Yuurei are often shown with a pair of floating flames or will o’ the wisps (hitodama) in colors such as blue, green, or purple. These flames look like little ghost friends, but they are actually separate parts of the spirit.

Ghosts in Modern Day

Although the concept of ghosts took a major turn with the introduction of Buddhism in Japan hundreds of years ago, most aspects of traditional ghost stories have stood the test of time. Even the ghost in “The Ring” looks like an accurate depiction of a traditional Japanese ghost.

Even so, the motivation for haunting and the appearance of ghosts has changed slightly at times as new issues have arisen with globalization and modernization. During World War II rumors of ghost soldiers could be heard about, and terrifying tales of radiated souls roaming the land weren’t uncommon.

These days ghost stories are often motivated by contemporary problems, such as violent incidents of suicide and murder in Japan. Another common theme is technology, as can be seen in “The Ring.” In general, ghosts have become more violent. The general rule of thumb these days is: the bloodier, the better. If buckets of blood aren’t involved, ghosts just aren’t scary it seems. More violence! Below is an example of a ghost story about suicide – a very real problem in contemporary Japan:

In short, ghosts keep getting scarier and scarier, and I don’t know about you, but that means I want them around less and less. This calls for an exorcism lesson.

Exorcism 101

So you’re in Japan and Hanako-chan won’t leave you alone in the toilet – what are you going to do? Call the Ghost Busters? I don’t think they fly internationally. Whip out the good ‘ol holy water and crucifix? Sorry, that doesn’t work in Japan.

Traditionally, the best way to keep a ghost at bay is with ofuda, or strips inscribed with Buddhist sutras, which are believed to chase evil spirits away. There are also some Shinto shrines that can perform purification rituals called ofurai that have the power to rid you of any bad omens.

But let’s be serious, people don’t believe in purification rituals anymore, and more effective methods have been discovered. A hot topic in Japan recently is the exorcising powers of Febreze. Yup, that’s right. You know that stuff your mom uses to keep the pizza roll odors fuming from your brother’s room at bay? That very same stuff can send a ghost straight into the netherworld, wishing it never decided to step foot back on Earth. No wonder it smells so fresh.

Febreze. Freshen the Air, Refresh Fabrics, Exorcise Linda Blair.

Don’t believe me? Try it out yourself. For only 1,980 yen, you can buy a Baketan 2, a ghost detector from Tokyo-based Solid Alliance Corp., find a ghost, and let them have it. No more worries about ghosts, spirits, or whatever you may call them.

Let me know if you’ve ever seen a ghost in Japan in comments section below. Or, share with us a scary story! I’m sure everyone would love to share in goose-bump inducing lore. If you’d like to check out some more ghost stories for yourself, you can do so here.

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Sources:
Japanese Ghosts: The Bloodier the Better
It’s Ghost Season in Japan – Who You Gonna Call?
Yūrei

Much like Aokigahara, Japan’s Haunted Forest of Death, Osorezan is a place steeped in Japanese lore and mysticism. Visitors wanting to experience a side of a Japan far removed from the nice and familiar temples and festivals will certainly not be disappointed by Osorezan and its unsettling landscape.

This is What Japanese Hell Looks Like

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Located at the northern tip of Aomori Prefecture, Osorezan is a place that has been venerated for its mystical power since ancient times. Lake Usori still bears the Usori name by which the area was known to the Ainu people many many years ago.

The area houses many different inviting sounding locales such as the Lake of Blood, half a dozen different hells, the Mountain of Swords, and the Dry Bed of the River of Souls. Even Osorezan itself is still an active volcano. Sure sounds like a nice place for a vacation, doesn’t it? But wait – there’s more!

Don’t drink the water.

The inescapable stench of sulfur is rampant in the area. The ground is grey, barren, and marked by openings that bubble with steam and hot water. The toxic waters of Lake Usori have killed off all aquatic life except for one hardy species of redfin. Signs everywhere warn of the danger of poisonous pit vipers in the area. Year-round the air is curiously silent, with no insect noise to speak of. The only noise to break the silence here is the call of black crows that eerily populate the area. Osorezan is a very creepy place indeed.

But despite its creepy factor, Osorezan has a healthy flow of tourism, and some parts of the area are actually quite pretty. Osorezan was discovered over 1000 years ago by a Buddhist priest in search of a sacred mountain that resembled the world of Buddha. Today it is the site of Bodaiji Temple. Bodaiji is the only temple in the area, and thus the main attraction. Bodaiji stems from a branch of Japanese Buddhism that has played a traditional role in helping the dead on their journey to the afterlife.

The Entrance to the Afterlife

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Because its geographical elements are similar to the descriptions of Buddhist hell, Osorezan is known as the entrance to the afterlife. On the way to Bodaiji Temple stands a small crimson bridge over a river that every dead person has to cross on their way to the afterlife.

Two demons are said to guard the river with the female demon stripping the clothes of the dead and the male demon weighing the clothes on tree branches to judge their karma. How weighing clothes determines your karma is a mystery to me, but I guess that’s just the way they do things at Osorezan.

Some parts of Osorezan, such as this bridge, are strikingly beautiful.

For the person who has led a virtuous life, crossing the bridge will be easy – you just walk right across it. If you’ve lived an average life you can cross at a shallow path across the river which isn’t too bad. But if you have led a life of evil, you must walk through the waters of the river which are filled with demons and poisonous the snakes mentioned above.

The majority of Japanese funerals are Buddhist ceremonies, and most adhere to this bridge crossing belief. For example, it’s believed that the departed make the crossing seven days after they die and a special ceremony is often held to pray for a successful crossing.

The Jizo Also Make an Appearance

Among the souls trying to cross the river are the souls of dead children and unborn babies. These little tykes build up piles of pebbles along the riverbed in an attempt to get to the other side. They are supported by Jizo (which Viet wrote about in an earlier post) who protect the souls from evil demons who constantly try to destroy the piles of pebbles because they are demons and that’s what they do.

Statues of Jizo and piles of stones are commonplace around Osorezan. The stones are offerings to Jizo by parents of dead children in the hope that the Jizo will use the stones to help their children gain access to the world beyond. Pinwheels are also a common sight as they are said to help with the children’s journey as well.

The Blind Shamans of Mount Osore

I’m sensing you have a dead relative named… Grandpa.

During Osorezan festivals, those seeking direct contact with the departed can do so through blind mediums known as itako. These mediums are all women, typically over 80 years of age, and rarely speak English. And I guess not all of them are totally blind because the woman in the above photo is wearing glasses, so she must have some sight left in her.

The itako chant and speak with the dead to deliver messages from the spirit world to their paying customers. While doing so, they hold their sacred black beads which often contain such odds and ends as old coins and parts from dead animals.

It’s not hard to tell that the itako all seem to be a bunch of hacks, though. The supposed spirits of the dead tend to say the same things to just about everyone, but the customers don’t seem to mind. Many such customers will queue for hours on end waiting for the itako. Afterwards they all seem quite satisfied with their “interaction” with lost love ones.

The Bodaiji Festival

Every year the Bodaiji Festival (July 22-24) attracts many visitors, and is a real cash cow for the itako. Getting to the area can be difficult due to a lack of public transportation, but Osorezan remains a popular destination and the temple even has overnight lodgings for guests.

There are many walking paths around the area, allowing visitors to stroll around the site and take in the scenery. Like I said before, some areas around Osorezan are gorgeous, so it’s nice for people to be able to walk around and experience them. Visitors should avoid the poisonous water of Lake Usori though, as it is poisonous. And remember, the whole place stinks to high hell of sulfur, so if you have a sensitive nose, be aware.

As a tourist destination, Osorezan is definitely a departure from the usual temples and shrines that Japan has to offer. Minus the rotten smell, it definitely seems like a cool place to visit. If I’m ever in the general area and have some time to kill, I’ll be sure to check it out in person.

So tell me, have any of you ever been to Osorezan before? What was it like? Think you’d ever go visit it, or would the stench be too much for you? And which area do you think is more spiritually charged – Osorezan or Aokigahari? Let us know in the comments!

Sites Referenced:
Japan Times
Japan Guide
Mount Osore Wikipedia