Kamakura is an easy place to get to, a quick one hour train ride from Tokyo Station along the Yokosuka Line. As I usually do on any extended trip minus children, I had my knitting with me, my husband had a book, and we alternately attended to our hobbies while watching the countryside speed by us. We were in Japan over the American Thanksgiving holiday, so no beach time for us, but I remember it being a beautiful sunny day, perfect for walking and sightseeing.

When the first destination is fun but the second is inspiring…

The first stop for most just coming off the train in Kamakura is to walk west along the main road towards the Daibutsu, the large sitting buddha.

It’s an extremely popular destination for both foreigners and Japanese alike, so you won’t be the only person standing in front of the giant buddha making the peace sign while others snap photos with rapid abandon. Off to the right side of the giant buddha is a covered area with a huge, absolutely gigantic, pair of straw shoes that made my husband and me laugh. I stood and wondered about the person who had woven them hoping buddha would step off his platform and walk away. Then I took a photo. Of course.

The Daibutsu is fun and interesting, but the statue is, at most, a ten-minute sightseeing effort. Stand and gaze at its immensity, maybe burn some incense, sit and ponder your significance, and move on.

Traveling further east from the daibutsu, we came to the temple I was most interested in, Hasedera. I knew from friends who had visited this temple that it was high up on a hill and had a beautiful view of the bay and beach beyond the city. But what really draws people to Hasedera are the Jizō statues.

These tiny statues are placed on the temple grounds to honor deceased children, children who have either died young or in childbirth, and there are hundreds of them in perfectly symmetrical lines. What struck me most about spending time with the Jizō statues was how quiet everyone was. Silent and respectful. Each statue was a marvel, a representation of a tiny life lost before he or she could make their mark on the world. I wasn’t the only one who kneeled down to make eye contact with one, like you do with a child you want to talk to. I snapped a few photos of them all in a row, and when I placed my camera back in my bag, my knitting was right next to it. I didn’t know this tradition of knitting or crocheting hats or scarves for Jizō statues. Just like we keep our kids warm in the winter, these knitted items protect the little statues from rain, wind, snow, and sun. Had I been prepared, I would have knitted a baby hat and brought it along to adorn a lost soul.

Who was Jizō?

Jizō is best known as the protector of deceased children, especially children who have died before their parents or during childbirth. He guards them and escorts these children into the afterlife across the Sanzu River so they won’t be forced to make penance for all eternity for not having outlived their parents. But Jizō is also the saint that protects travelers and common people, so his likeness is not just found at temples but also at roadside stands and cemeteries.

There is a Japanese children’s story, Kasajizō, about an old man and woman who are poor but still manage to help the animals that depend on them even when they are starving. They’re kind and thoughtful people, despite having very little. When the old man is unable to sell hats he and his wife have made in exchange for food, he places the hats on his neighborhood’s Jizō statues. In return for his kindness, the Jizō statues come to life and deliver food to the old man and his wife. Continuing the circle of gift-giving, the old man and his wife return what they don’t eat to the Jizō statues to thank them.

This story is so iconic of Japanese life, especially concerning the circle of gift-giving that can occur with Japanese people. Once someone is presented a gift, they must respectfully gift something back to the original giver at an appropriate time or holiday. It becomes an obligation, one Japanese omiyage shops are more than pleased to help you with should you be traveling and need a gift to bring home to your coworkers or neighbors. Jizō, traveling, and gift-giving all go hand-in-hand. He is a deity you should keep on your side, at all times.

Protect Jizō from the elements with your knitted gift

Jizō is known for being a benevolent god, helpful and kind, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that he deserves a lot of love and affection. Hats and scarves are common gifts amongst the statues, but if you look closer you may find other gifts: a toy yo-yo, a mobile phone charm, a Hello Kitty stuffed animal, a pot of flowers, or even jewelry. Gifts arrive for Jizō statues almost daily, piling up next to and between them until someone comes and moves them to add more.

If you’re a knitter like me, now would be a good time to think about providing him with something warm to get him through winter. I’m sure many of us would want to shroud Jizō in the finest wool and cashmere, but let’s think practically for a moment.

You want your gift to last for a long time. If you’re in Japan for a short stay, it would be worth it to knit something to last until the next time you visit Japan, if ever. You need a shield for your statue, not a comfortable and fluffy sweet frock.

Need to learn how to knit first?

Knitting has become extremely popular in the last five years with well-known figures such as Margaret Atwood, Julia Roberts, Christina Hendricks, Kate Middleton, and even Ryan Gosling all publicly talking about their knitting. Knittinghelp.com is my favorite online resource for learning to knit. Their videos are clear and easy to understand. If you learn better one-on-one with a teacher, be sure to check out your local yarn store to see if they have classes. Once you’ve purchased needles and yarn, become a member of Ravelry.com (it’s free) and log all of your projects there, find others who knit in your community, and cruise the Ravelry boards for inspiration.

Knitting For Jizo

Knitting for Jizō presents its own set of challenges. The statues live outdoors all year round and the weather in Japan can range from blistering hot to frigid to typhoon winds that blow houses down. My suggestion is to go with acrylic yarn, the more workhorse yarn the better. Crocheted red hats are a popular choice (as evidenced by the photo above) because red is the color of life and has traditionally been associated with the protection of children in Japan. It is not uncommon to find Jizō dressed in other colors, though, so I challenge you to step outside the norms and knit or crochet something with love from your heart. Choose a color or pattern that means something to you, something you’ll be able to pick out of the crowd because, if you’re lucky, you may see your gift again in photos online!

When choosing a size, the smaller the better. Jizō statues are generally small with preemie-sized heads. Knit the newborn size but don’t go larger. If you have the skills, add a tie to keep it attached to the statue’s head during typhoons. I have a few pattern suggestions too, if you need somewhere to start.

The Basic Newborn Hat by Major Knitter

• http://majorknitter.typepad.com/major_knitter/2008/11/free-baby-hat-p.html
• http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/basic-newborn-baby-hat—rolled-brim (On Ravelry)

Here’s an example of it knitted in stripes:

• http://www.flickr.com/photos/9535337@N08/3726848568

And another one in blue with a rolled brim:

• http://www.flickr.com/photos/16674353@N00/7841549606

If you’re a crocheter, try the Teresa’s 10 Minute Crochet Preemie Hat.

• http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/teresa-hat.html
  http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/teresas-10-minute-crochet-preemie-hat (On Ravelry)

Here’s an example of them crocheted in several colors:

• http://www.flickr.com/photos/34479933@N00/2222933887

And here are some more in muted colors with stripes:

• http://www.flickr.com/photos/32853348@N00/8807991853

Remember, you’re crafting this for a statue! You don’t need to worry about how scratchy it’ll be or if you screwed up your decreases. If you have time, knit or crochet a thin, long scarf to add as well. And though you probably don’t want to get too involved with this, the crazier the design and color choice, the better. Have you seen Japanese street fashion? It’s out there, way out there. Your Jizō attire will attract more photos and additional gifts should you decide to be creative so shower your chosen statue in the something you had fun making, something that will bring a smile to mourners’ faces, or just be a bright spot in an otherwise somber tradition.

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Bonus Wallpapers!

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Much like Aokigahara, Japan’s Haunted Forest of Death, Osorezan is a place steeped in Japanese lore and mysticism. Visitors wanting to experience a side of a Japan far removed from the nice and familiar temples and festivals will certainly not be disappointed by Osorezan and its unsettling landscape.

This is What Japanese Hell Looks Like

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Located at the northern tip of Aomori Prefecture, Osorezan is a place that has been venerated for its mystical power since ancient times. Lake Usori still bears the Usori name by which the area was known to the Ainu people many many years ago.

The area houses many different inviting sounding locales such as the Lake of Blood, half a dozen different hells, the Mountain of Swords, and the Dry Bed of the River of Souls. Even Osorezan itself is still an active volcano. Sure sounds like a nice place for a vacation, doesn’t it? But wait – there’s more!

Don’t drink the water.

The inescapable stench of sulfur is rampant in the area. The ground is grey, barren, and marked by openings that bubble with steam and hot water. The toxic waters of Lake Usori have killed off all aquatic life except for one hardy species of redfin. Signs everywhere warn of the danger of poisonous pit vipers in the area. Year-round the air is curiously silent, with no insect noise to speak of. The only noise to break the silence here is the call of black crows that eerily populate the area. Osorezan is a very creepy place indeed.

But despite its creepy factor, Osorezan has a healthy flow of tourism, and some parts of the area are actually quite pretty. Osorezan was discovered over 1000 years ago by a Buddhist priest in search of a sacred mountain that resembled the world of Buddha. Today it is the site of Bodaiji Temple. Bodaiji is the only temple in the area, and thus the main attraction. Bodaiji stems from a branch of Japanese Buddhism that has played a traditional role in helping the dead on their journey to the afterlife.

The Entrance to the Afterlife

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Because its geographical elements are similar to the descriptions of Buddhist hell, Osorezan is known as the entrance to the afterlife. On the way to Bodaiji Temple stands a small crimson bridge over a river that every dead person has to cross on their way to the afterlife.

Two demons are said to guard the river with the female demon stripping the clothes of the dead and the male demon weighing the clothes on tree branches to judge their karma. How weighing clothes determines your karma is a mystery to me, but I guess that’s just the way they do things at Osorezan.

Some parts of Osorezan, such as this bridge, are strikingly beautiful.

For the person who has led a virtuous life, crossing the bridge will be easy – you just walk right across it. If you’ve lived an average life you can cross at a shallow path across the river which isn’t too bad. But if you have led a life of evil, you must walk through the waters of the river which are filled with demons and poisonous the snakes mentioned above.

The majority of Japanese funerals are Buddhist ceremonies, and most adhere to this bridge crossing belief. For example, it’s believed that the departed make the crossing seven days after they die and a special ceremony is often held to pray for a successful crossing.

The Jizo Also Make an Appearance

Among the souls trying to cross the river are the souls of dead children and unborn babies. These little tykes build up piles of pebbles along the riverbed in an attempt to get to the other side. They are supported by Jizo (which Viet wrote about in an earlier post) who protect the souls from evil demons who constantly try to destroy the piles of pebbles because they are demons and that’s what they do.

Statues of Jizo and piles of stones are commonplace around Osorezan. The stones are offerings to Jizo by parents of dead children in the hope that the Jizo will use the stones to help their children gain access to the world beyond. Pinwheels are also a common sight as they are said to help with the children’s journey as well.

The Blind Shamans of Mount Osore

I’m sensing you have a dead relative named… Grandpa.

During Osorezan festivals, those seeking direct contact with the departed can do so through blind mediums known as itako. These mediums are all women, typically over 80 years of age, and rarely speak English. And I guess not all of them are totally blind because the woman in the above photo is wearing glasses, so she must have some sight left in her.

The itako chant and speak with the dead to deliver messages from the spirit world to their paying customers. While doing so, they hold their sacred black beads which often contain such odds and ends as old coins and parts from dead animals.

It’s not hard to tell that the itako all seem to be a bunch of hacks, though. The supposed spirits of the dead tend to say the same things to just about everyone, but the customers don’t seem to mind. Many such customers will queue for hours on end waiting for the itako. Afterwards they all seem quite satisfied with their “interaction” with lost love ones.

The Bodaiji Festival

Every year the Bodaiji Festival (July 22-24) attracts many visitors, and is a real cash cow for the itako. Getting to the area can be difficult due to a lack of public transportation, but Osorezan remains a popular destination and the temple even has overnight lodgings for guests.

There are many walking paths around the area, allowing visitors to stroll around the site and take in the scenery. Like I said before, some areas around Osorezan are gorgeous, so it’s nice for people to be able to walk around and experience them. Visitors should avoid the poisonous water of Lake Usori though, as it is poisonous. And remember, the whole place stinks to high hell of sulfur, so if you have a sensitive nose, be aware.

As a tourist destination, Osorezan is definitely a departure from the usual temples and shrines that Japan has to offer. Minus the rotten smell, it definitely seems like a cool place to visit. If I’m ever in the general area and have some time to kill, I’ll be sure to check it out in person.

So tell me, have any of you ever been to Osorezan before? What was it like? Think you’d ever go visit it, or would the stench be too much for you? And which area do you think is more spiritually charged – Osorezan or Aokigahari? Let us know in the comments!

Sites Referenced:
Japan Times
Japan Guide
Mount Osore Wikipedia